My summer working on the Isle of Arran

There’s just something about Arran that sticks with you. Watching the sun go down over the Kilbrannan Sound, the quiet of the evening sky, and the laid-back island vibe. It’s like stepping into another world, but one that makes you feel right at home. This summer, Arran wasn’t just a place I worked; it became a part of me.

As I packed up my stuff, I felt caught in that bittersweet place of wanting to go home, but having to leave the new home I’d found. The job may be over, but the landscape still lingers in my mind, the sunsets and the stars, well, they’ll always remind me of the nights I never wanted to end.

The job

They don’t call Arran “Scotland in miniature” for nothing. I was based in the island’s rugged north, known for its dramatic mountain ranges, granite peaks, sweeping moorlands, and winding glens. My home and workplace was the community-run Lochranza Country Inn Ltd, where I lived and worked as kitchen porter, front-of-house in the bar and restaurant and a bit of garden maintenance. It was apron on and straight into the hustle from the moment I arrived.

Part of my role at the hotel involved tending to the beer garden. One week, while trimming back the rhododendrons, I had an unexpected encounter – a tick attached itself to my thigh. Apparently, that’s a fairly common hazard on Arran! Thankfully, my manager managed to remove it without any drama. The rest of the job was a bit more straightforward – just me, a hammer, and a pile of slate, which I smashed up to create a neat garden border, even finding some Pyrite crystals embedded in the stone.

Having never worked in hospitality before, I can honestly say it’s absolutely crackers. Full-on stress, non-stop shifts, and moments where you just want to scream. But having such a brilliant team around me has made all the difference. I genuinely couldn’t have got through it without them

The Hikes

Between shifts, I had the chance to explore my incredible surroundings and let me tell you, my ‘backyard’ was something truly special. I’d step outside, pick a direction, and within minutes (or a short bus ride) be on a trail that looked like it belonged on a postcard; every walk was literally a little slice of Arran magic.

  • A quick trip to Stronach Woods to have a wee look at the cup and ring prehistoric art found on a slab of rock there, such a peaceful spot, and amazing to think those carvings have been sitting quietly in the forest for thousands of years.
  • The wet, boggy and misty Clauchland Hills Hike – where I spotted absolutely nothing!
  • An epic 9.5 mile boggy, slog up Gleann Easan Biorach, (Glen of the Sharp Waterfalls), walking from sea-level, to Loch na Davie, (source of water for the Arran Distillery), was proper worth it. Stunning views of the Glens, before crossing into Gleann Diomhan, where I found a beaut of a pool for a surprisingly warm swim, odd, but lovely.
  • Fuelled by the ‘sandwich of dreams’ from Lochranza’s famous Sandwich Station, I hiked along the coastal path from Sannox, back to Lochranza. Even though the weather was absolutely horrendous, I was rewarded with a pod of porpoise, the fossilised footprint of a giant millipede and the site where James Hutton changed geological thinking forever.
  • Had myself a cracking hike up Beinn Nuis on another day off. Started off my journey by heading up Glen Rosa, before turning and going up Garbh Allt Burn, batting off horseflies all the way. Before a once in a lifetime encounter with a Golden Eagle gently flying over the hills and valleys around me. I then carried on up the steep descent to Beinn Nuish, clambering over big granite boulders, before reaching the summit with stunning views over the mountains of Arran, all the way to Ailsa Craig in the south and as far as Northern Ireland, the Paps of Jura and even the mountains of Mull in the distance. Headed down and found the wreckage of a plane, which I believe was a Liberator from WW2.
  • Glen Rosa became a firm favourite. I led my family up the sweeping glen more than once, and plunged into the wild, icy waters of the Blue Pools for an unforgettable swim.
  • Right from my doorstep there’s the coastal path towards the Cock of Arran and Narachan; sandstone & fossils everywhere, creating nature’s own gallery. Gannets put on a show, dive-bombing the sea like pros. It’s a wild and rugged coast, a proper beauty.
  • And no stay on Arran is complete without a hike up Goatfell. I took a route starting from Corrie, heading up Coire Lan, with a scramble to the summit of Goatfell. I then headed along Stacach, before pulling up to the summit of Goatfell for what must be some of the best views in Scotland.

For routes and more information about any of the above hikes, just drop us a message and I’d be happy to give you details.

The Flora & Fauna

Up in the air or down on the ground, Arran’s plants and wildlife are just phenomenal; there’s always something cool to spot, whether it’s an eagle overhead or a cheeky red squirrel in the woods. And if there’s one plant that really makes itself known, it’s the heather – everywhere you turn, it’s right there in your face, painting the hills purple and buzzing with life!

My mate Matt from Hampshire Carnivorous Plants challenged me to track down the native sundews – Drosera rotundifolia and Drosera anglica. Spotted them on a few hikes, looking all sparkly with dew, just chilling and waiting for some unlucky insect to wander by.

Lizards were chilling on the sun-warmed rocks, soaking up the rays and I even spotted a couple of slowworms, the first I’ve seen in ages. Above, I’ve been lucky enough to spot hen harriers gliding low over the moorland, their wings slicing silently through the air.

The hedgerows on Arran are buzzing with life. As spring rolled into summer, wild radish popped up with pale flowers swaying beside brambles and nettles. I even found my first Arran Whitebeam – one of the rarest trees (by number) in the world! Up on Goatfell, Alpine Alchemilla was doing its thing, and golden-ringed dragonflies zipped past rivers & lochs, their black and yellow bodies flashing in the sun. In the trees, red squirrels were darting about; they are so agile, cheeky, and dare I use the cute word?

At night, the sharp sound of deer barking cuts through the silence along with the splashes of fish that sound like whales breaching metres from shore, making you jump out of your skin, your heart pounds, reminding you that this place is alive in ways you can’t always see! Herons join the evening choir at Lochranza, their guttural croaks and harsh squawks slice through the night air. One heron will kick off and others answer with clattering calls, like Pterodactyls sailing in the wind. The noise is really unsettling, primal, like the cries of creatures from prehistoric times.

Bog myrtle – my latest botanical crush – it’s literally everywhere! I first stumbled across it in abundance at Glen Sannox, one of my favourite glens. Nestled among the heather and bracken, it gives off this sharp, pokey scent – apparently known for its powers as a natural midge repellent. Not that I’m convinced anything truly stands a chance against the ferocious Scottish midge…!

But it’s all about the eagles for me and on one hike as I reached the edge of the moorland, I was greeted by a breathtaking sight: a pair of golden eagles soaring and weaving gracefully above me, framed perfectly by the rugged peaks of Goatfell. Just as I was taking it all in, one of the eagles suddenly veered closer, so close I could hardly breathe. It glided past with effortless power, skimming the moorland like a harrier. It was, without doubt, one of the most extraordinary views I’ve ever had of a golden eagle.

And just a few days before I left I was treated to the perfect way to wrap up one of my final shifts. I’d cracked open a beer and perched on a rock overlooking the sea near the ferry port. The night was crystal clear, below, bioluminescent plankton shimmered in the water, while above, the Milky Way stretched across the sky in full glory. It was pure magic. One of those moments you will NEVER forget.

The Places

Took the bus over to Brodick before one of my shifts kicked off and squeezed in a cheeky wander through Brodick Castle Gardens and wow, what a treat. The place is absolutely bursting with colour and character. From exotic blooms to delicate little treasures tucked into every corner, it’s a proper feast for the eyes. The real showstopper though? The Pride of Madeira – tall, dramatic spikes of vivid purple flowers that looked like they were putting on a performance just for me. The gardens themselves are beautifully laid out, with winding paths, hidden viewpoints, and that perfect mix of wild and manicured. Honestly, it’s a cracker of a garden.

I went to the Library in the Woods over at Eas Mòr with my parents, where the memories and stories of those who trod on the same paths as we did, hung from the very ceiling and walls of this ‘Cabin in the Woods’. Outpourings of love, creativity and personal messages were enough to make anyone feel moved.

The footprint of a great extinct beast over at Kildonan Shore, apparently made by a giant reptile related to early crocodiles, lay like a hand print in the rock on this beach. Putting my palm down to this striking example of animals gone by, it shows how Arran’s geology tells a tale of time as well as words in a book.

And here’s some other little pockets of Arran magic – The Sandwich Station, The Little Rock, Mara, Corrie Inn, Arran Distillery, Arran Botanical Drinks, the Wineport and my favourite rock hanging over the water in Lochranza.

The People

Working on Arran has been nothing short of amazing. From the moment I arrived, I was surrounded by spectacular wildlife, stunning landscapes, and experiences that will stay with me forever. But as breathtaking as the island is, it’s the people who made it unforgettable. The friendships I’ve made here, the laughs we’ve had, having each other’s back, that’s what truly made this chapter special. I’ve felt part of something bigger, part of a team, that showed up, that made every day mint. Arran gave me memories I’ll never forget, but it’s the people who became part of my story.

Laterz Arran!

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About greenfingeredgeorge

Wildlife gardener studying Environmental Science at Stirling University
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